Imperishable Beauty, Art Nouveau Jewelry, on exhibit at the Torf Gallery in the Museum of Fine Arts on Huntington Avenue in Boston, Massachusetts is significant and awe-inspiring not only because of the subject matter but also because of its presentation.
As you approach the Torf Gallery through the well-appointed hallways of the MFA, you first notice the live orchids in the window boxes across the hall of the Gallery entrance. Once you manage to pull your eyes from these gracious little beauties, your attention is drawn in by the Alphonse Mucha poster of the beautiful Sarah Bernhardt, the original "Art Nouveau". Passing through the entry, you will be immediately captivated by the breathtaking allure of Charles Desrosier's Orchid Brooch, made of gold, enamel, diamond, and pearl. The line to see this famous orchid brooch can be a bit long, but once you find yourself alone with it, you realize it was worth the wait. So lifelike you want to touch it to be sure.
Stepping away from this famous brooch leaves you twirling with delight as you try to decide where to turn your attention next; should it be Sarah Bernhardt's self-portrait? Few knew of her sculpting abilities. A glance to the left will offer a display case with a surprising array of scarab inspired jewelry and accessories. The Egyptian Revival scarab collection is a surprising modern stylized version of thes ancient talisman crafted into hair combs, bracelets, earring, and even a belt.
Continuing through the gallery, the visitor cannot help but notice that each display shows its' own unique beauty from plique' a jour dragonflies and butterflies, to a simple brooch inspired by seaweed. Soon realized are the wide geographic diversity of the Art Nouveau style, as well as the general execution of the style itself. Plique' a jour is a backless enamel which can often be made to look like gems, giving meticulously handcrafted beauties an ethereal effect and offers colors and textures that were born of the creative genius of jewelers from around the world. Rene' Lalique, the best represented in this collection, is among good company. Under the influence of the Art Nouveau style, silken dragonflies and gossamer-winged butterflies drift gently down from the clouds of myth and mystery to land a a brooch on a lady's shoulder.
Art Nouveau Jewelry is a thrill for the senses and a luscious puzzle for the brain. If you should find yourself in Boston before November 9, 2008, this exhibit is a must see.
Andrea Guyot Twombly is Vice-President of Guyot Bros. Co., Inc., a century old manufacturer of brass jewelry findings for the costume jewelry and related arts trades. Andrea is a member of the Vintage and Fashion Costume Jewelry Asssociation and the American Society of Jewelry Historians. She has also attended and hosted a number of jewelry home shows. The Guyot Brothers website can be found at http://www.guyotbrothers.com
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